tango, a thermos and a yellow card

A cold west wind. Layers of sweaters, leg warmers and mittens required.

"I didn't have time for coffee, so I brought a thermos. Want some? It's with cinnamon."

My sister and I sit in the ancient, rotting bleachers. Around us, a dismally grey neighbourhood where someone is playing Finnish tango music. On the field, a flash of neon pink shoes. Junior girls are playing a game of football.

A goal is disqualified by the referee because the ball slips out through a hole in the net. We sip coffee. Shout encouragement to the girl that plays centre-back, one of us. Say hello to a dog. Note the fact that even innocent-looking 14-year-old girls get yellow cards.

The right team wins and I hug a sweaty teenager. "It was HOPELESS in this wind, the ball went EVERYWHERE."

On Saturdays like these, I remember why I came back to Finland.